Beauty & Fashion

MM6 Maison Margiela Resort 2025 Menswear Collection

MM6 Maison Margiela Resort 2025 Menswear Collection

Legacy brands have been diving into the archives of late, looking for familiar archetypes in need of a contemporary refresh. At MM6 Maison Margiela, the pre-spring 2025 collection is built on clothes that somehow work “with and counter to the notion of generic foundational pieces,” according to the notes. In the studio, the catchphrase is “ready when worn” because the intent is more about prompting playfulness in dress than achieving instant cool.

Back when the founding designer was in the house, “dressy” often meant column shapes and bare arms for women. This season, that crisp ’90s archetype returns with slit-back tops or dresses nicknamed “90-degree” pieces because the wearer can opt for “alternative” armholes (a slit down the back, namely) or sleeves to achieve a surrealist twist or drape. A ruched t-shirt seemingly bound with packing tape riffs on a DIY peplum (it slips on thanks to a discreet side zip), while a denim skirt is wrenched so that a back pocket appears in front and the fly at the side—an example of considered design masquerading as haphazardness. Textures and treatments like raw edges, visible stitching, and distressed silk are meant to evoke the time-worn, imperfect reality of the pre-digital era. A silver jacket inspired by mid-century fireman’s gear fuses pared-down utilitarianism with ’60s minimalism (the shoe-stockings are a neat styling trick, too).

Menswear focuses on functionality, but there is often a flipside with attitude: A trench hybridizes with a wool coat, a bomber cross-pollinates with a denim jacket, a beige summer suit has a contrasting panel that is actually lining worn on the outside. Assembled as a sartorial collage, normcore somehow manages to come off as cool, too. Grunge-inflected workwear and cargos pair with Ivy codes or reversible bombers with reflective seams from the brand’s ongoing collaboration with Salomon. Also new are the Spectur 2 city sneakers in a coated knit that will crackle and patina over time. Two leather pieces deserve a spotlight: The crisply cut black jacket and a new iteration of a vintage crossbody holster bag (originally done in canvas) look great right now—and by rights will become heirlooms too.

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